More than 10 centuries have the history of the most ancient type of batik – nodule. The birthplace of this art is considered indochy. And the word “batik” is folded out of two: “Ba” is a cloth, and “Tick” – point (the term is taken from the language that we used on the island of Java). The name arose due to the unique technology of staining material, the basis of which was the use of wax. Now the batik is a painting on the fabric, the wax is actually not used, but the variations of the structuring of the figure every time they have improved.
Nodule Batik technology can not be called complex. It is similar to other batch directions: the fabric needs to be reserved from the painting composition from entering it. Only in a specific situation is applicable not reserving composition, but ropes, threads, harnesses, with which you can create nodes.
First, the fabric needs to be wrapped, tied up, make nodules on it, and only then it falls into the paint. Or paint is applied to the cloth with a brush. When the coloring process is over, rewound and tied places will remain non-crushed. The result is an interesting pattern, its complexity and beauty depends on how thought about the nodule technique. The nodules, by the way, fit both manually and special fixtures resembling hooks.
Batik’s battal technique. It is often shown to children, since they like this manual creativity: as a rule, guys with the help of a nodular batik make themselves rainbow bands.
What fabric is needed?
So that the drawing on the fabric is beautiful, bright, resistant, should be decided on the cloth.
Experts recommend cotton fabrics:
- Thin sheet cloth.
Fabric shades are preferable white or light. Well, if the material is a monophonic, with a rare printed pattern like a peas or stripes. It’s no secret that manual creativity is always inclined to save, therefore nothing persistent in the use of tissues, used, no. It seems great to work in the technique of a nodule batik, whose fabrics have previously burned down in the sun, lost their brightness.
And only when experience in tissue coloring technology is confident, sufficient for the complication of technology, you can proceed to the transformation of natural silk, viscose, clean wool. But the synthetic tissue for the batik is not used. Even the fabric with splashing synthetics will not fit. These materials require fundamentally different work techniques, schemes and dyes will be other.
If you do not know these rules, the drawing may turn out fuzzy, blurred. Aniline dyes do not cope with synthetic fibers, hence such a result.
Aniline dyes – this is the main “participant” of the batik. They are used to staining x / b fabrics. Almost in any store of goods for creativity you can find a rather wide palette of these dyes. But many batik lovers are not looking for easy ways, make dyes independently.
It is possible – remember which tint gives onion husk or nettle. Natural dyes are definitely environmentally friendly than attracting modern batik admirers.
Examples of plant dyes:
- Red – St. John’s wort, Crush and hawthorn+
- yellow – Potatoes and Oshnik+
- green – nettle and cuff+
- Orange – celandine+
- blue – blueberry+
- Violet – blueberry+
- blue – Flowers Ivan-da Marya.
You can start with industrial dyes, and when confidence will appear, try to get paint yourself: you will get creative naturprodukt.
Tools and auxiliary
The main tool that helps make nodules – a thin cord or durable, sufficient reliability thread. They must prepare a cloth to color. From the auxiliary formulation it should be noted:
- egg shell+
- Small pebbles+
- Wood chips+
- Smooth small does+
- clothespins of clothespiece+
- traffic jams+
- Covers and other.
All these breeds help create a unique drawing on the fabric. You may not be limited to the proposed list, but come up with your stamps, author. Someone uses baby hairpins, someone caps from markers and handles, someone elastic springs.
And also necessarily you will need dishes, where the most interesting in nodules will be carried out. It should be a glass or ceramics tank (paints will be divorced), enamelled saucepan (in it there is staining itself), a container for subsequent rinsing of the fabric, a plastic bottle for dye storage. Need a standard wooden blade that you will stir cloth.
The presence of special skills, art education and even a simple ability to draw – not at all. The principle of the nodular batik: every piece of fabric that has not been painted, is tied so that the paint does not get into the nodule. For this, you need clothespins, clamps, cords. They do what in the batik is called tissue redundancy. Fabric can be twisted, folded, stitch, bend.
In this way of reservation and subsequent staining, you can make napkins, tablecloths, clothes, scarves, bandans, pareo.
The next stage – coloring can be two types.
- Brush staining. The billet with nodules is placed in not very deep container, after which a small amount of dye is applied to it. If you use several colors, apply them alternately. But note that neighboring colors are often mixed, a new shade is obtained (not always beautiful). Therefore, think about and how, in what sequence you paint.
- Painting submersible. Without brush, you just dip the tissue into a container with diluted paint. So usually conduct multicolored staining. Protective process, unprecedented.
Multicolor staining will be more complex. On the stretched fabric, the master puts the blots, makes the strips and various spots applying for artistry. And after drying on the fabric, knots are tied, small and large, after which the fabric is immersed in the paint of a darker shade, rather than was used before. The procedure is repeated several times.
How to fasten the composition?
There is an option to use paints “Under the Iron”. The work is first dried, then it is released from the nodules, it is fluttered on the reverse side. Then it should be rolled to rinse in clean water, thus remove the dye residues. If steam-looped dyes are used, the fabric is also released from the nodules, the painting is fixed by steam. The product should also rinse, dry, fly.
If you apply an aniline dye and submersible way, it is possible to fix the dye right away. It is bred by hot water in the dishes that can be heated. This water should all cover the fabric even after boiling, therefore water takes 3-4 l per 100 g of tissue (in a dry state). The blank is placed in the dishes and boils on not very big fire. Cotton boiling for 20 minutes, then 50 g of salt add it to the solution, and half an hour is boiled again.
If you paint silk, the process will not greatly differ, but only instead of salt, vinegar goes. The fabric needs to be left in the solution until the temperature drops to 50 degrees. The cloth is washed in warm water, then in cold. Only at this stage the nodules are unclocked, and the fabric is washed again. Ironing fabric still wet so that the folds from the knots are left without problems. If you do everything this way, in re-fixing the color will not be necessary.
A nodule batik is not the most capricious technique, it is perfectly combined with others (with a cold and hot bat). Often the masters use it as a base for a flower motive, which is further worked out in the cold batik technique. The technique does not necessarily use the entire cut, but only its part. While you boil the material, one of its edge can be left an uncrowded, in a convenient way to secure it over dishes for boiling. So, the transition from the color part to the unpainted will be natural. And then you can manually paint a unpainted fragment.
Those in Soviet years, “cooked” jeans, understands how with the help of nodules and boiling you can achieve a unique design of clothes. Try a nodular batik, you will like it!
In the next video, you are waiting for a master class on nodule batik (Spiral pattern).