Wool felting without use of liquids (felting) requires often quite complex tools in independent manufacture. For example, you need a special needle, differing from those we sew. Hanging needles manually have a special structure. The jealous needle for felting the wool is directed inside, to the tip: when piercing woolen material, the hairs are tightened by the edge inside.
With the reverse movement, the woolen fabric is knocked down and becomes more dense. So initially loose wool turns into a tight felt.
The needles differ from each other only by the location of the jar relative to each other. This is the main criterion for their classification by varieties. They are sold in any sewing store.
- The simplest needle is triangled. On each of the faces there are teeth, the direction of which allows you to keep the woolly in the implementation of the puncture.
- Star needle – four. All these faces are equipped with teeth. It allows you to more accelerate to knock off the hair tight. Not shot down by the usual needle with three faces properly wool better falls precisely with the help of star needle.
- Spun asterisk – it is even more comfortable in the use of needle. Its jar are placed in spiral order, and not at different levels as on a simple star-shaped needle.
- The needle with three twisted edges does not leave the tracks in the form of holes. It is perfect for final finishes of soft toys or small things.
- Coronary needle provides for the location of the jar at the very end of the working part, while the number of porcelies supplied is significantly less. So, with its help, puppet strands can be labeled much easier than when applying other similar tools. With it, it is easier to fasten the details of any small toy. This needle is reverse predominantly due to the reversing sequence of Zzabin.
Important! Newcomers are suitable for the usual triangular needle of different appointments, as well as a needle reverse.
Description of sizes
But alone for the form, the classification of needles for felting is not limited. Eagle digital marking relies on their actual thickness. The needle thickness range varies in increments of 0.5-1 mm. Eagle marking is similar to labeling for knitting spokes. Its foreign values are as follows:
- Size 40-43 – Superflower needle, allowing fine to designate small sections and contours at the end of the felting+
- Size 36-38 – averaged size needle, most often used for dumping+
- Size 19-34 – The thickest needles used for the main work.
In Russia, the labeling looks like this:
- “Star” on 38 is considered large, 39 – medium, 40 – shallow+
- coronary 38 – already thin+
- Twisted needle (36-40) marked by real thickness.
Most masters engaged in and playing wool use still not a domestic number system.
The needles “Stars” are the following dimensions:
- 38 – Thick Needle+
- 39 – Middle+
- 40 – thin.
The twisted “asterisk” lies in the numbering range from 36 to 40. Coronary – from 38 to 43, while the jar is located closer to the end of the needle. Such a needle is more often used for near-surface work. “Star” and twisted needles, unlike simple triangular, apply to increase productivity. They are suitable for experienced masters who stuffed their hands on simple needles – for speed (star and twisted needles relate to high-speed) payable significant effort when pressed in the process of wool rolls.
A twisted needle contains an axis in the form of a spiral, allowing you to place more hooks on it – more woolly captures, the performance of work increases. “Star” leaves smaller holes in the material, but captures more hairs – and because it is considered the highest speed due to deeper furrows from the sides. They differ in the smoothness of the stroke without breaking the fibers.
Three-edged and tetrahedral “Stars” apply most often – mostly 38 and 40s, the latter work well with the applicator. Ordinary triangular needles are not so fast and effectively waving wool as “asterisks”.
Anyway, the needles with star-like edges are a popular tool in surface felting, novice masters work with them.
In the main work “Filtment” is not involved, but it is still needed for easy dissolution. For example, on toys in the form of animals, fruits and colors, it forms something like a light fluff. “Return” flies wool during return movements, because she got its name. It perfectly helps to swim wool in hard-to-reach places, where the original geometry is used, make a fur with particularly noticeable and textured.
Reverse needles have only two sizes – 32 and 40. There is no medium size.
The coronary needle is also suitable for manual fooling and is used in specific cases, for example, for an artificial hair roller for dolls and other toys made from textiles. At the very end there are 3 grooves, carrying out a neat roll of long threads, not blunting them away inside the material. The “coronal” needle is used in specific places. In the case of work “Crown” with another needle on the same tip, you will get a dent. That is why there is such a needle for the cutting straw.
How to choose?
Ibjects for felting are often broken from long and voluminous work. An effort that is sometimes applied to the wool, rather big – it can make a needle to such an extent that steel will break. Russian products are presented, for example, the company “Gamma”, but they are inferior of fragility and flexibility of all the same foreign from Clover.
Best of all the quality of the manufacture of needles, Germany and Japan distinguished themselves. It is German and Japanese “Valyalki” are recommended for long and systematic work.
Needle for felting should have a comfortable handle – preferably wooden. When the needle breakdown, there is no need to buy a new one with a handle – sets of spare needles very easy to get.
Set of a valley
For clear and high-quality work, the following inventory is required:
- A rug for work (in the simplest case – thick foam)+
- Pupil films (in such a frequently packaged small goods from China)+
- Fixing needles fixture (supports operation with several needles)+
- Substrate for raw fooling (slurry).
Important! Prepare wool intended for felting.
Holders (applicators) are supplied with replaceable or inseparable bases. Replaceable allow you to work with several needles, monolithic – only with one, originally reinforced in the applicator itself. But adapters are also supplied to the monolithic holders, allowing to put felting on the stream – you can simultaneously use up to 5 needles. Often applicators are made of wood or plastic.
Mostly it is a tree or plastic. Applicators are best suited for short needles – long will look out of them, which will complicate the work process.
How to fed wool?
The needle is located strictly perpendicular to the wool processed – at this angle it enters and comes out of it. Dissars in any of the parties prematurely dismiss the needle and lead to its emergency breakdown. “Fatigue” of metals: the product from millions of flexions and extension is simply broken.
Start work with the thick needle, and not the opposite. Not failed wool requires preliminary sealing that facilitates the work of thinner needles. This means that a thick needle is much tightened into unprepared wool, more subtle easily turning, without whipping the material pre-. But in the shattered wool, the thick needle will no longer enter – here, after making products of the main form, and we need medium and subtle tall.
In no case, do not scroll into the needle inside – the fur wool tightly on the needle, without pulling them out of a lump “with the root”, it is almost impossible to release the tool.
Masters working with interior toys and souvenirs use basic needles not larger than 36 sizes. When the work is almost finished and the wool must be smoothed, it takes a thin tool, up to 43rd. For exceptionally small parts and souvenirs, thinner needles are also used – no largest 40th. Try and look for a scatter of needles, convenient to you. The above recommendations will help high quality wool, giving the product a finished and tidy look.
What can be replaced?
No, the use of homemade needles for felting is capable only to harm – wool will not be swelled, but washed. It is impossible to make a felt needle – their faces and hooks should be thin, which is achievable only in factory conditions. Application, for example, toothpicks with sharpening, like fellow needles, not justified: the tree is broken, the hooks will be expelled will be expelled, and such a homemade in the end looks like a simple “picker”, which does not give effect.
Use real felting needles.
On how to choose and use needles for felting, look in the following video.